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Dilli Ki Sardi

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As I write this from the temperature controlled floor of my office in Gurgoan, the chilling weather and the chai-wallah outside are almost dragging me to them, probably through a freezing telepathic connect! The morning bulletin said after Kashmir, Shimla and Manali, it snowed in Pathankot, a first in over 35 years.  Sitting in NCR, I can chillingly fathom the snow laden Kashmir and Pathankot, such is the weather here!

Delhi winters were always compared with that of London. This time we are a degree closer to London and we want to rejoice this winter till it lasts! Here’s a round-up of what to do, where to be and what to eat this winter in Delhi.

Connaught Place

While Connaught Place, colloquially known as CP, needs no introduction, some detailing might help. To get the most of CP, dedicate a day to it. Wander carefree at the central park with your friends or family. As you enjoy the winter sun lazing on one of the benches or laying on the grass, chatting or reading a book, a number of tea-sellers, papar-waalas and channa (gram) sellers around will take care of you. If there’s still time for lunch, a good walk to Hanuman Mandir or Bangla Sahib will make way for a hearty appetite. On the footpath in front of PVR Rivoli, a fleet of cheap jackets, stockings, gloves and kerchiefs are too attractive to ignore, even if you aren’t going to buy! If you’re looking for a value-meal, walk in to Coffee Home opposite Hanuman Mandir. Whether with sandwiches and cutlets, or after sambar vada and dosa, make sure you have their famed filter coffee; an absolute winter delight. If you’regame for street food, try the samosa/pakora/kachori stalls outside Hanuman Mandir and you’ll rediscover what value-for-money means.

Digest lunch as you stroll in CP’s middle circle with its fleet of showrooms and book shops. The fall-winter sale in these showrooms will make your casual stroll more exciting and purposeful! Also check out the Janpath market near LIC building for fashionable clothes, accessories and jewellery at dirt cheap prices and ample room for bargain. Try snacks at DePaul’s, milk shakes at the famous Keventers and mouth watering bakery delights at Wenger’s Pastry Shop. A perfect end to your can’t-get-any-better winter day in Connaught Place!

Khan Market

On the big circle around India Gate, a small exit leads you to Khan Market, one of the best markets of Delhi. Khan Market is named after Khan Abdul Gaffar Khan, an Indian freedom fighter who advocated non-violence with Gandhi. A heaven for non-vegetarian lovers, Khan Market is home to various old and new eateries, restaurants and chains. Begin with the most famous Khan Chacha, a namesake restaurant on first floor in the middle lane that serves gourmet tandoori and grilled rolls of fish, chicken and mutton. After Khan Chacha, try the shawarma rolls with mayonnaise at Al Bake. Another famous and delectable, though pricey, affair is Big Chill, a restaurant famous for Italian food and desserts.

If food isn’t the only thing on your mind, Khan Market still holds several attractions.  Some really picky selections of arts, kitchenware, fabric stores and books in Khan Market attract many foreigners visiting Delhi. As you plan a date with Khan Market, make sure your wallet is full and your stomach is empty!

Chandni Chowk
It’s time to visit the brightest feather in Delhi’s cultural hat. While Chandni Chowk is visited across the year, the pleasant winter afternoons make walking easier and more enjoyable. Chandni Chowk, the moonlit square is an old-world town where time, it seems, has stopped. With gullies of shops and eateries inside, Chandni Chowk has a street with famous shrines of all religions. The panoramic Red Fort, Sri Digambar Lal Jain Mandir, Gauri Shankar Temple, Central Baptist Church, Sis Ganj Sahib Gurdwara, Fatehpuri Masjid and the famous Jama Masjid all stand tall and peaceful in a cultural amity here. The soft light of a winter afternoon can get you some beautiful shots of these shrines so don’t forget to take along your camera.

Proceeding to culinary delights at Chandni Chowk, begin with starters at Natraj Dahi Bhalle, a street shop serving aloo tikki and dahi bhalley since 1940. For your main course, it’s hard to think of a name other than Gali Paranthey Wali. The oldest shop, Pt. Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan has been serving paranthas since 1872. It’s best to try an assortment from the 25 paranthas on their menu, starting from the usual ones like potato, cauliflower and peas to special ones like carrot, cashew, papad and even rabri! Prepared sinfully in pure desi ghee, these paranthas are worth skipping your diet schedule for a day. For dessert, try only one of the big jalebis at the famous Jalebi Wala nearby. Gianiji ka Falooda is another old shop serving delicious rabri faluda. Some delightful sweets (for take-away, of course) can be bought from Ghantewala Halwai, another decades’ old sweet shop at Chandni Chowk.

A lesser known secret of Chandni Chowk is that it has Asia’s biggest camera market on Esplanade Road with over 100 small shops selling a range of cameras and their accessories. To ditch parking woes and traffic, especially when you’re on a full stomach, make a visit to Chandni Chowk using the Delhi Metro, which takes you directly there.

Besides these three all inclusive places, you can also visit India Gate (near Khan Market and CP), Hauz Khas Complex (in Hauz Khas village, South Delhi) and Noida’s eloquent Akshardham Temple.

All the recommendations are conveniently accessible by Delhi Metro and open on weekends.  Having written so much about food and Delhi, I’m now waiting for the next weekend to once again visit them. Long live Dilli ki Sardi!


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